Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city is hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their younger generation do not want to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to discover these stories and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
