Each Cook Should Learn Here’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Ranks Fourth on Ranking of London’s Best Restaurants.

Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end names. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The honour has made the family completely shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” says the family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest place securing such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.